The second day of the intra-Egypt trip began with a beautiful breakfast in the Mena House hotel, for which we were very fortunate to get an excellent rate. This hotel has a direct view of the pyramids, and has been arguably the most storied hotel in Cairo for the last hundred years.
The first stop after breakfast was Old Cairo, where we saw some of the earliest Christian churches ever built.
After visiting the Coptic Christian area, we headed to the Islamic section of Old Cairo. The Citadel was commissioned by Muhammad Ali between 1830 and 1848, and has a fantastic view of the city because of its strategic position high on a hill.
Lunch followed in Khan El Khalili, which is a major souk (market) in Cairo. I asked for "hamam" (pigeon), which is prepared two ways: stuffed and grilled. The stuffed version was so peerlessly flavorful that I now understand why Mohamed's aunt told me that it's the one thing she has seriously missed ever since she moved from Egypt.
A trip to one of the shops in the souk yielded gold bangles, which immediately drew me in with their soft jingle and curvy glow.
The area around Khan El Khalili is almost as interesting as the souk itself.
Upon entering the first working mosque I've ever visited, I was asked to take off my shoes and to cover my hair. I was pleasantly surprised to get a loaner scarf that was fashionably complementary to my linens.
I then found myself back in Hanan's belly dancing costume factory. This blue costume will be covered in peacock feathers created from jewel-like sequins. I can't wait for her to mail it to me when it's finished in three weeks!
The day ended with an absolutely breathtaking show with saidi musicians and tanoura dancers. These ethnic Egyptian artists clearly love their craft and are extremely skilled at it. Can I take them back to California with me?!
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